The photo below is from a Golf Course Management Facebook site.
It shows the traffic from 6 golfers on a green.
Notice the concentration of traffic at the flagstick.
This is from 6 golfers.
Imagine the wear around the cup after 150 -200 golfers play the hole.
This is why it is so important for players to walk carefully on the greens to avoid leaving spike or drag marks.
Showing posts with label Greens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Greens. Show all posts
Wednesday, July 22, 2020
Saturday, March 3, 2018
Putting Greens Have Speed Limits Too
Putting Greens Have Speed Limits Too
Putting green speeds have long been a hot topic. While there are many opinions on the subject, one thing is for certain – faster doesn't necessarily mean better. Every putting green has an architectural speed limit. When putting greens get too fast, hole locations intended by the original design can become unplayable. Here are a few things to consider the next time you think about green speed.
It will take a minute to upload the video but please take a look.
Tuesday, August 15, 2017
Soil vs Sand Greens
Why are the white greens different from the red and blue greens? Why do they feel softer? The white greens were built 100 years ago and were what we call "push up" greens. Native soil was just moved and shaped to a design and grass was planted on top. There was no drainage installed and the native soil (clay) has a tendency to hold moisture following a rainfall. When the white nine was renovated in the late 90s, there was no drainage installed in the greens and they kept the same soil rootzone. Only the grass species was changed.
Conversely, USGA sand based greens are designed for drainage and dryness and firmness. Sand drains better than soil and the red and blue greens also have a drainage system built into the subsurface. The combination of a sand rootzone and subsurface drainage provide for a firmer and drier putting surface.
Conversely, USGA sand based greens are designed for drainage and dryness and firmness. Sand drains better than soil and the red and blue greens also have a drainage system built into the subsurface. The combination of a sand rootzone and subsurface drainage provide for a firmer and drier putting surface.
Tuesday, July 11, 2017
Green Speeds - Dr. Michael Hurdzan NCC Architect
The topic of green speeds is always at the forefront of the golfing public. Below is an article that includes comments from Dr. Michel Hurdzan, the architect of the US Open site Erin Hills and the architect for our red and blue nines at NCC. A long read but helpful to all.
http://www.golfdigest.com/story/in-the-race-to-faster-greens-caution-signs-abound-us-open?mbid=social_twitter
In the race to faster greens, caution signs abound By Mike Stachura
Major championship venues are defined by lightning greens, but at your local course, they're a recipe for trouble.There is some measure of irony that the very device that was designed to control green speeds has largely been responsible for making them seem a lot closer to pool tables than putting surfaces.
The Stimpmeter, invented in the 1930s
but not made standard practice by the USGA until the 1970s, is a
yardstick-like trough that releases a ball on a green through gravity to
measure greenspeed in feet of roll. When it was initially devised by
noted Massachusetts amateur Edward V. Stimpson more than 80 years ago,
his concern was that greens, particularly at 1935 U.S. Open-venue
Oakmont, had simply become too fast. While Stimpson never measured
Oakmont back in the day, experts believe those slippery surfaces would
have likely been “stimping” at about a 5. Last year, the greens at
Oakmont on Sunday of the U.S. Open were close to triple that speed.
Now,
every level of the game—from players to superintendents and turf
scientists to golf course architects and rule makers—lies seduced by the
Stimpmeter as some measure of excellence rather than a regulating
guide. That unintended distortion seems almost a kind of battle between
progress and panic, as it gets easier and easier to make greens faster
and faster, and harder and harder to say enough is enough.
Even
the head of the USGA is urging all of golf to slow down while at the
same time talking about how important it is for the greens at the U.S.
Open to be an unrelenting challenge built on speed.
“When
you get the greens to a certain speed they almost come alive
architecturally to where if you miss a green, you may have to play a
contour,” Davis said when referring to the plan at Erin Hills, where the
greens will be set up to roll at what he called “average U.S. Open
speed, maybe even a little faster than typical U.S. Open speed.” Over
the last 20 years, U.S. Open speed has gone from speeds in the mid-10s
to the high 14s last year. To be fair, green speeds vary with the
course. They were 14 at Bethpage Black in 2009, but only 11.5 at Pebble
Beach the next year. Still, as an example, in the three U.S. Opens
played at Pinehurst No. 2, the projected speed went from 10.5-11 in 1999
to 11-11.5 in 2005 to 12.5 in 2014.
“Speed is addictive,” Hurdzan said. “The old story is that today’s luxury is tomorrow’s necessity.”
Yet despite that trend, Davis wanted to
be clear that golf in general, to put it crudely, needs to do as I say
not as I do. Specifically pointing to everything from the cost to the
enjoyment of the game to the pace of play that have been negatively
affected by faster greens, Davis was almost pleading when he said,
“Taking our U.S. Open hats off for a second, this arms race to get fast
greens is not a good thing for the game of golf.
“It’s
just that I think we hope that the game starts to move back the other
way, and that courses are more reasonable and golfers are more
reasonable about the speed.”
Michael Hurdzan, one of the golf course
architects for Erin Hills who also happens to have a Ph.D. in
environmental plant physiology, fashioned the greens at this year’s U.S.
Open site with large features and reasonable slopes given the current
state of agronomy and golf course maintenance practices. He likes to say
that if the speed is right, a ball just nudged from the top of a
particular slope should only roll out about 18 inches or so past the
hole location. He calls it “the finite linkage between speed and slope”
and how today’s green speeds necessitate that the slope grade get no
greater than about 2 percent, half of what they were when the Stimpmeter
was introduced in the 1970s. The greens at Erin Hills reflect the
changing times.
“Erin Hills is a
good example of greens where we have a lot of pitch in them,” he said.
“To set a hole any further up the slope would be just making a game out
of it. If you want putting to be a precision art or skill, then you have
to give them a playing field that allows them to do it.”
But Hurdzan also knows that the green speeds at marquee events like this week’s U.S. Open have become dangerously seductive.
Speed is addictive,” he said. “The old story is that today’s luxury is tomorrow’s necessity.”
When
the USGA introduced the Stimpmeter in 1978, it had just completed a
year-long test of 581 courses. It found the average green speed to be
about 6.5. Less than 2 percent of the 2,116 measurements recorded were
higher than 9. Today, at a typical
PGA Tour event, green speeds are probably two-to-three feet faster than
most of the fastest speeds recorded in that 1977 study, although data
shows they’ve held steady in the 12-foot range over the last three
years. But it’s not just at the elite level. A 2016 Metropolitan Golf
Association survey found the average green speeds in the region to be
11, or more than a foot faster than they were in 2008. It might even be
conservative to say average green speeds across the country have
increased by more that 50 percent since that 1977 study that introduced
the Stimpmeter.
Perhaps no one on
earth has studied the ways green speeds can now be maintained as much as
Thomas Nikolai. Known as the Dr. of Green Speed, Nikolai is a Ph.D. and
turfgrass academic specialist at Michigan State, and has spoken around
the world on the topic. He thinks focusing on increasing Stimpmeter
numbers has become overly important (instead of using the device as a
gauge of greens consistency). At the end of the day, he thinks as far as
average golfers are concerned, the Stimpmeter should be practically
irrelevant.
“Green speeds should have never been
used for course comparisons because speed is never inseparable from
undulation,” he said. “Every golf course should be shooting for its own
number.”
What’s most telling is how
much has changed in the 40 years since the Stimpmeter has been actively
used, says Nikolai. He says that 6.5 average from a generation ago isn’t
merely slower than the current standard, “it’s hard to make a green
that slow today and still have it look like a green.”
What’s
changed is a paradigm shift in the maintenance practices and in some
cases the grass varieties that are being used today. In many cases,
modern greens grasses aren’t meant to produce anything but fast
surfaces. According to Golf Digest architecture editor Ron Whitten,
their relatively high concentration of grass blades per square foot
means if they’re not cut very low, it “causes the tops of the blades to
spread [much like a phone book placed on its spine, so that the greens
become ‘puffy’ or ‘grainy.’
“If a
club has invested in returfing their greens and goes with a new modern
strain, they're pretty much forced to mow at a lower height and have
faster greens than even the superintendent and architect would desire,”
Whitten said.
As
well, it is common not only for elite events and top-rated clubs but
even for nine-hole courses in small towns that will never hold a state
golf event let alone a major tournament to use those motorized greens
rollers that zip across the surface like mini-high-speed Zambonis.
Nikolai’s research has shown that rolling greens actually allows greens
to gain speed even if the mowing heights aren’t lowered or if the greens
aren’t cut every day.
The larger
point is given prudent maintenance practices, it’s become easier to
groom faster putting surfaces—within reason and for a specific time
period, says Bill Maynard, president of the Golf Course Superintendents
Association of America and the director of golf course maintenance
operations at St. Albans (Mo.) Country Club.
“All
of us at facilities big and small know where that edge is,” he said.
“It’s all about water management. We get it there, and then we back it
back.
“It’s kind of like you’re
showing off a little bit. The car’s in tune, and you’ve got the girl in
the seat, and we’re going out for a drive. But then we back off because
you can’t go 100 miles an hour on the interstate. Something bad is going
to happen. Something you can’t see coming.”
Certainly
the USGA has seen bad things happen with green speeds that may have
been pushed too far. Near catastrophes in 1998 at The Olympic Club and
in 2004 at Shinnecock Hills perhaps spurred maintenance changes and even
architectural alterations, but they didn’t do much to slow greens. And,
of course, last year at Oakmont, the case of Dustin Johnson’s ball
moving on the green, at the very least, was an indirect result of
putting surfaces slippery enough for a Pittsburgh Penguins morning
skate.
Nikolai thinks speed in and
of itself isn’t the danger to turf health it may have once been.
“Firmness is going to kill a green faster than speed, because firmness
is going to rely on withholding water,” he said.
Getting
championships to slow down, whether they be at the national or club
level, seems especially hard to do, in part, because superintendents are
as proud of their skills as tour players are of theirs.
“But
I also think superintendents get it,” Maynard said. “They know where
that speed is that’s going to affect the movement of the ball, and
nobody wants that. It’s about making those greens perform their best
that week, knowing that it’s not going further than eight days. They
have that throttle in their hand and know how to use it.”
It’s
telling, and perhaps even a little troubling, that tour players grumble
when they arrive for the Open Championship, where green speeds can be
nearly a third slower than when they played the U.S. Open a month
earlier. The R&A, in part because of the effect of the wind on the
exposed greens found on seaside links, keeps its Stimpmeter goal in the
9.5-10.5 range.
“We are hopefully
past the race for pace because if our sole focus is on speed, generally
speaking we’re in trouble when it comes to turf health,” said Steve
Isaac, director of sustainability at the R&A.
But
Hurdzan is concerned the speeds have already changed golf course
architecture for the worse by causing green slopes to be softened. “Many
of us think we’ve taken away our ability to define hole locations or
target areas within greens because of this mania for fast greens,” he
said. There is also a belief that overly fast greens is another
indication of the golf ball going too far, as insanely demanding putting
surfaces is one last defense against 350-yard tee balls.
Hurdzan
wonders if a slower green might actually end up challenging the best
players even more. “Think of it this way: Does it take more skill to
take the putter back a few inches for a 30-foot putt on a fast green, or
to take it farther back on that same 30-foot putt on a slightly slower
green?”
It’s an interesting logic, but green
speed ever since the introduction of the Stimpmeter hasn’t always been
governed by logic. “It’s a little bit crazy where we are,” Hurdzan said.
“But we’ve got to be close to maxing out.”
There needs to be a more practical dividing line when it comes to championship greens, says Maynard.
“It’s
important that we continue to group the Oakmonts and the Augusta
Nationals and the major sites in one group and then separate them from
membership play,” he said. “That difference is in terms of green speeds.
You adjust your throttle to the caliber of player.
“If it’s member play, it’s down to wherever they like. If it’s 10, that’s awesome. If it’s 11, well, I’m sorry to hear that.”
Nikolai
says it’s hard but doable to get greens to stimp at those tossed around
U.S. Open green speeds of 14, although he’s never gotten a test plot
higher than 13 himself. He’s even measured the stimp on a pool table
(it’s between 15 and 16), which is either ridiculous or within reach.
But be careful what you wish for.
“If
the question is, ‘Is a pool table fast?’, the answer is, ‘Well, no,
it’s a pool table,’ ” Nikolai said. “But if you’ve ever played pool on a
slightly crooked pool table, then suddenly that slope is immense. And
you can’t even see it.”
Thursday, June 8, 2017
Summer Heat Stress and the Golfer
The effects of summer weather conditions can have a dramatic effect on closely mowed golf course turf (at thousands of an inch), much more so than on a home lawn that is mowed at several inches in height and does not have hundreds of people and golf carts driving over it. Take a look at the following video. Thanks
Thursday, July 26, 2012
Why are the white greens different?
I receive numerous questions about the white nine greens and why they differ from the red and blue nine greens. First and foremost, the greens renovation that was done to the white nine, prior to my arrival at NCC, was merely a process of changing the type of grass on the green. The bent-poa surfaces were replaced with L93 bentgrass, the new bentgrass variety of the day. Nothing was done to the 80 year old subsurfaces. Only 4 and 5 white greens were totally rebuilt. The other white greens maintained the same flatter surfaces and soil rootzones with no drainage. Without question, the white greens are a different "animal" than the red and blue greens and they will always be different. Simply put, they are basically 100 year old greens built with 100 year old materials and technology. The red and blue greens are constructed of current technology to meet the demands and expectations of today's golfer.
The white nine greens differ distinctly from the red and blue nine greens. The differences include:
The white greens are established with L93 bentgrass which has a different type growth habit than
the A1 bentgrass variety on red and blue. A1 is a finer leafed turf. The leaf blades of the L93
are broader and react differently to heat and humidity. The wider leaf equates to increased
resistance on ball roll, therefore reducing green speed. These two varieties are very different.
The other seven white nine greens simply had a new bentgrass variety planted on the surface.
There was no drainage installed nor a replacement of the rootzone material. The subsurface
is the same as it was when the course was built in the early 1900s.
Below exhibits vast difference in the construction of the white vs the red and blue greens
The white nine greens differ distinctly from the red and blue nine greens. The differences include:
The white greens are established with L93 bentgrass which has a different type growth habit than
the A1 bentgrass variety on red and blue. A1 is a finer leafed turf. The leaf blades of the L93
are broader and react differently to heat and humidity. The wider leaf equates to increased
resistance on ball roll, therefore reducing green speed. These two varieties are very different.
The white greens have no subsurface drainage, the red and blue greens do.
Without subsurface drainage to carry the water away, the green stays saturated and wet.
The white greens are made of native soil, the blue and red rootzones are sand based.
The native clay soils hold water and do not allow it to move through and away from the rootzone.
Certainly sand based greens with drainage will be firmer and drier than moister soil greens.
Sand based greens will allow water to drain thru the profile resulting in firmer putting surfaces.
The white greens do not have as notable slopes and contours as the new red and blue greens.
Being flatter, the white greens will not have the increased speeds of a sloping green.
Thus, the putting speeds are faster on the red and blue most days.
A new bentgrass variety, increased contours, sand based rootzone and interior drainage are the
four components that differ from the white greens. All golf greens are not the same.
The photo below shows the sand based rootzone of the blue and red greens.
Notice the extremely healthy 5 to 6 inch root structure of the sand based greens
The photo below is of a darker colored soil based "white" green.
The root structure is shorter and not as healthy
The black native soil, absent of drainage, holds water and is a softer surface.
During wetter periods, the native soil particles hold water and act much like a sponge.
Void of a subsurface drainage system, the white greens hold water during rainy periods.
There is no place for the water to go. There is no drainage mechanism for water to exit.
Notice the water standing in the bottom of the cup.
Softer, wetter subsurfaces do not result in firm & fast putting surfaces.
as the newly renovated blue an red greens. Only # 4 and #5 white greens were totally rebuilt.The other seven white nine greens simply had a new bentgrass variety planted on the surface.
There was no drainage installed nor a replacement of the rootzone material. The subsurface
is the same as it was when the course was built in the early 1900s.
Below exhibits vast difference in the construction of the white vs the red and blue greens
The photo below is of White green #1 rootzone. There is no drainage mechanism in place. Therefore the greens stay soft and wet for days following a rainfall.
The photo below is a USGA sand based green as is found in the red and blue greens. The dark brown layer is a mixture of sand and organic matter. Below is a gravel layer with drainage pipe which assists in carrying water away from the green. Therefore the surface of the green dries out quicker resulting in a firmer surface with increased putting speeds.
Friday, July 16, 2010
Putting Green Cupping Rotation
You will notice that at times there are no putting green cups located at the northwest end of the putting green. When there are cups at this end and edge of the green, 90% of all golfers stop right there and practice putting. They do not use the other 8 cupping locations or the other 8,000 square feet of putting surface. We rotate the cupping locations to disperse the foot traffic of the golfers so it does not wear out a single portion of the green.

Monday, June 28, 2010
Green Speed Factors
Numerous factors affect the speed of the greens on a given day or over an extended period. The most impacting factors include the health and condition of the turf, extremes in weather conditions, extended periods of drought or rain, construction methods and materials used to build the green, species of turf established on the green, the design & contours within the green, etc. Last but not least, green speeds should be maintained at a pace that affords the membership an enjoyable round of golf.
One factor that is often overlooked is that virtually no course has its greens maintained at lightening fast speeds everyday of the season. The turf simply cannot take that kind of pressure over an extended period without showing signs of a decrease in quality. You may visit a club for a Member-Guest or Guest Day or some special event where they have the greens very fast for that single day and that day alone. It doesn't mean that is their speed everyday.
Factors Affecting Green Speeds
Contributing Factors (lower speed)
Rainfall/irrigation/dew/humidity/moisture held in the plant
Fertilization
Verticutting
Aerifying
Hydrojecting
Brushing
Increased Mowing Height
Grain
Changes in soil temperature
Thatch
Diminishing effects of Plant Growth Regulators
Ball marks
Lack of sunshine (prevents turf drying)
Greens with a flatter design and minimal contours
Shade
Lack of air movement
Contributing Factors (higher speed)
Rolling
Lower mowing height (Diminishing return)
Increase # of times mowing - double cutting
Changes in soil temperature
Reduced fertility
Use of Plant Growth Regulators
Verticutting
Grooming
Brushing
Topdressing
Any factors that contribute to a smoother surface
Any factors that reduce plant growth
Use of improved bentgrass varieties
Higher wind velocities (keep surfaces firm and dry)
Greens with more slope and more undulations
Good air flow
Improved drainage for firm surfaces
Dry surfaces
Low humidity
One factor that is often overlooked is that virtually no course has its greens maintained at lightening fast speeds everyday of the season. The turf simply cannot take that kind of pressure over an extended period without showing signs of a decrease in quality. You may visit a club for a Member-Guest or Guest Day or some special event where they have the greens very fast for that single day and that day alone. It doesn't mean that is their speed everyday.
Factors Affecting Green Speeds
Contributing Factors (lower speed)
Rainfall/irrigation/dew/humidity/moisture held in the plant
Fertilization
Verticutting
Aerifying
Hydrojecting
Brushing
Increased Mowing Height
Grain
Changes in soil temperature
Thatch
Diminishing effects of Plant Growth Regulators
Ball marks
Lack of sunshine (prevents turf drying)
Greens with a flatter design and minimal contours
Shade
Lack of air movement
Contributing Factors (higher speed)
Rolling
Lower mowing height (Diminishing return)
Increase # of times mowing - double cutting
Changes in soil temperature
Reduced fertility
Use of Plant Growth Regulators
Verticutting
Grooming
Brushing
Topdressing
Any factors that contribute to a smoother surface
Any factors that reduce plant growth
Use of improved bentgrass varieties
Higher wind velocities (keep surfaces firm and dry)
Greens with more slope and more undulations
Good air flow
Improved drainage for firm surfaces
Dry surfaces
Low humidity
Friday, March 26, 2010
Flagsticks In
The flagsticks are in the greens. Don't let the sunny blue sky in the photo fool you. It is 33 degrees and sunny but it is very cold today on the course. Keep in mind that it will be some time before the turf begins to actively grow. It will begin to green-up but will not really begin to grow until the soil temperatures reach the high 50s or low 60s at a 2 inch depth.
The course is still very wet from the melted snow and will be slow to dry out until the daytime temperatures climb into the 60s and 70s. Please check with the golf course condition line or the Golf Shop over the next few weeks if you plan to play golf. Any significant rainfall amounts, excessively cold temperatures or prolonged frosts could affect the opening of the golf course. See you soon.

The course is still very wet from the melted snow and will be slow to dry out until the daytime temperatures climb into the 60s and 70s. Please check with the golf course condition line or the Golf Shop over the next few weeks if you plan to play golf. Any significant rainfall amounts, excessively cold temperatures or prolonged frosts could affect the opening of the golf course. See you soon.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Spring Greens
Monday, March 22, 2010
Greens - Getting Ready
In preparation for opening the golf course, we implement the necessary of cleaning and rolling the greens. Coming out of winter, the putting surfaces are soft and "spongy" due to the freezing and thawing process caused by cold temperatures and melting snow.
Greens are rolled to smooth and firm them in preparation for opening
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Greens - Soft
The photos below provide an indication of how soft the greens are coming out of the winter. The putting greens is a new construction and it will take a few months to firm up. The softness is a result of the newness of the green and the freeze-thaw cycles during the winter and spring. You can see the footprints in the turf. The white greens are firmer because they are much older. The red greens are a bit soft but we will roll them to firm them up and they will be playable very soon. Right now, all areas of the course are wet and soft due to the melted snow. 
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