Morning Dew

Why is it wet this morning?
Did you water last night?
Did it rain last night?
These are common questions that I receive from several golfing members.
In fact, we irrigate the turf as little as possible.
We irrigate only when the turf needs it to prevent wilt and turf loss.
Another reason for our limited irrigation is due to the poor quality of the effluent water that we use for watering the course.  It has a few elements that, in elevated amounts, have a negative effect on turf quality (sodium and bicarbonates.)

There is a term in the golf business "dew sweepers"
These are the early morning players who play before the morning dew has dried from the turf's surface. 

Below are a few photos of early morning golf course dew.

Why Does Turf Have To Be Watered During The DAy

The video below gives a description of why water might need to be applied during the day to greens during the summer stress months.  It is a common practice at every golf course.

The second video explains why turf dies in the heat.

Enjoy

 

Carts In Fairways Only - WHY?

On numerous occasions, I receive the questions:
"Why are carts in fairways only today?"
"Why are carts in the roughs only today?"

There are 3 main factors involved in how cart decisions are made on a day to day basis.

1.  In most cases, the fairways drain quicker.  The turf is cut shorter so it dries quicker.  There is also drainage installed in the subsurface of the fairways to get rid of the water quicker.  So whenever possible, we ask that carts be kept in the fairways.

2.  The roughs have longer turf and it does not dry as fast.  The roughs do not have drainage in the subsurface like the fairways do so they stay wetter longer.   The roughs have numerous bird baths and low areas resulting in standing water.  Therefore, the carts can cause more damage in the roughs during wet periods.

3.  No two rain periods have the exact same effect on the course.   Decisions on specific cart usage for any individual day depends on a number of factors.  Drying times depend on:
      How much did it rain on a particular
      How much did it rain on previous days
      How soon does the sun begin to shine
      Is there sufficient wind movement to aide
           in drying the course
      What are the humidity levels and how do they
           affect the course drying process
     
Standing water in the roughs can limit  cart usage because carts cannot get to the fairway without causing damage

                                                                                                      

                                                                            

Every morning each fairway and rough are check for moisture & saturation levels.  Carts are available whenever remotely possible.  I understand the necessity of cart usage for many of our members.  But as you can see, there are simply days when carts cannot access the course without causing significant damage.

                                                   
                                                     

Why is the driving range surface different from the fairways?

                                         
Why is the turf on the driving range different from the fairways?

The answer is that the fairway turf reaches a state of maturity from many years of growth. 
The range turf never reaches a state of maturity because we seed the divots 2 to 4 times a year depending on how many times we rotate through the range tee.  When we begin the season on the lower level at the front of the tee we rotate back to it in a matter of 4 to 6 weeks.  In that short time, the new seed that we have planted has germinated and begins to grow but it simply has not had time to become dense, thick and mature.  We are constantly hitting on immature turf.  We are re-seeding daily with the most aggressively growing seed variety on the market.  There is no other turf variety that will solve the tight lie issue.

The photo below shows the thatch or pad that accumulates our fairway.  This is a double edge sword.  This pad allows your ball to sit up very nicely allowing you to sweep the ball off the turf.  However, this same "pad" is one of the factors that limits ball roll on your tee shots. 
                                         

That is a layer of organic material (decomposing roots, grass blades, etc.) located below the grass blades and the soil.  It accumulates over time.  Aerification and sand topdressing are measures used to maintain thatch in acceptable levels in the fairways.   Zero thatch control is required on the range turf because the turf never reaches a mature enough state to begin developing this thatch layer.

 The range is very actively used.

The photo below is of a cross section of the range tee turf.  Notice there is no thatch or pad layer so the leaf blades are directly on thop of the soil.  This would be representative of laying carpet in your home directly onto the concrete foundation without installing a layer of padding under the carpet. 

    Below shows the condition of the range tee before the renovation. 

   This is the condition of the range

tee following the renovation

 This photo shows how much of a small area of the range tee is displaced during a single day of hitting.  It willl take this area 6 to 8 weeks to germinate, grow and begin to fill in.  It would take several years for this area to mature and become dense like a fairway.  However, we rotate the tee back to this same spot 2 to 4 times a year so the young turf is barely growing when we are hitting off of it again.  It simply never has time to reach maturity. 

This photo shows a complete row of used turf during a single day.  It takes 6 to 8
 weeks for this area to cover again.                                                

                                       

Why are the white greens different?

I receive numerous questions about the white nine greens and why they differ from the red and blue nine greens.  First and foremost, the greens renovation that was done to the white nine, prior to my arrival at NCC, was merely a process of changing the type of grass on the green.  The  bent-poa surfaces were replaced with L93 bentgrass, the new bentgrass variety of the day.  Nothing was done to the 80 year old subsurfaces.  Only 4 and 5 white greens were totally rebuilt.  The other white greens maintained the same flatter surfaces and soil rootzones with no drainage.  Without question, the white greens are a different "animal" than the red and blue greens and they will always be different.  Simply put, they are basically 100 year old greens built with 100 year old materials and technology.  The red and blue greens are constructed of current technology to meet the demands and expectations of today's golfer. 

The white nine greens differ distinctly from the red and blue nine greens.  The differences include:
The white greens are established with L93 bentgrass which has a different type growth habit than
     the A1 bentgrass variety on red and blue.  A1 is a finer leafed turf.  The leaf blades of the L93
    are broader and react differently to heat and humidity.  The wider leaf equates to increased
    resistance on ball roll, therefore reducing green speed.  These two varieties are very different.

The white greens have no subsurface drainage, the red and blue greens do.

Without subsurface drainage to carry the water away, the green stays saturated and wet.

The white greens are made of native soil, the blue and red rootzones are sand based.

The native clay soils hold water and do not allow it to move through and away from the rootzone.

Certainly sand based greens with drainage will be firmer and drier than moister soil greens.

Sand based greens will allow water to drain thru the profile resulting in firmer putting surfaces.

The white greens do not have as notable slopes and contours as the new red and blue greens.

Being flatter, the white greens will not have the increased speeds of a sloping green.

Thus, the putting speeds are faster on the red and blue most days.

A new bentgrass variety, increased contours, sand based rootzone and interior drainage are the

     four components that differ from the white greens.   All golf greens are not the same.

The photo below shows the sand based rootzone of the blue and red greens.

Notice the extremely healthy 5 to 6 inch root structure of the sand based greens 

The photo below is of a darker colored soil based "white" green.

The root structure is shorter and not as healthy

The black native soil, absent of drainage, holds water and is a softer surface. 

During wetter periods, the native soil particles hold water and act much like a sponge.

Void of a subsurface drainage system, the white greens hold water during rainy periods.

There is no place for the water to go.  There is no drainage mechanism for water to exit.

Notice the water standing in the bottom of the cup.

Softer, wetter subsurfaces do not result in firm & fast putting surfaces.                             

                       
There is a misconception that the white nine greens were rebuilt to the same specifications 

as the newly renovated blue an red greens.  Only # 4 and #5 white greens were totally rebuilt.
The other seven white nine greens simply had a new bentgrass variety planted on the surface.
There was no drainage installed nor a replacement of the rootzone material.  The subsurface
 is the same as it was when the course was built in the early 1900s. 
                                    
Below exhibits vast difference in the construction of the white vs the red and blue greens

            The photo below is of  White green #1 rootzone.  There is no drainage mechanism in place.  Therefore the greens stay soft and wet for days following a rainfall.            

 The photo below is a USGA sand based green as is found in the red and blue greens.  The dark brown layer is a mixture of sand and organic matter.  Below is a gravel layer with drainage pipe which assists in carrying water away from the green.  Therefore the surface of the green dries out quicker resulting in a firmer surface with increased putting speeds.

Why are the traffic ropes and stakes necessary on the golf course?

During the hot, windy and arid times of the year it is necessary to utilize various golf cart traffic rotation measures.  Cart traffic is one of the most influencing factors relating to turfgrass wear and compaction. We will only use these measures when necessary to protect your golf course. I understand their inconvenience but I also know they work. 

Golfers routinely drive carts close to the bunkers which result in compaction and wear patterns.

 In an effort to get as close to their golf balls as possible, golfers often drive their  carts too close to the bunkers

Notice the off color of the fairway turf to the left of the bunker, just inside the darker green intermediate rough cut.  This is the route many golf carts are driven resulting in compaction and wear.  The traffic rotation stakes will help give the turf a break from the cart traffic and let it recover

Again, carts are routinely driven just inside the fairway cut line resulting in the turf off coloring and becoming compacted.

During extreme periods of heat, drought and low humidity the turf is stressed and is susceptible to wilt and damage from golf cart tires.

The area below is along the path at White #8 where carts enter the fairway

The photo below is of the exact area on White #8 where the traffic blocks were added.  As you can see, they do work to protect your golf course

Why do you put sand on the fairways?

Over the last 4 or 5 years we have implemented a topdressing program following aerificaiton on the fairways.  In this process, sand is applied to the fairways for the main purpose of controlling thatch.  I have included a description and photos of what excessive thatch is and how it can negatively affect turfgrass quality and playing conditions.  An additional benefit to a regular fairway topdressing program is that it assists in creating a drier surface on the turf so that carts can get out on the fairways sooner following a rainfall. 

Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with quality golfing conditions. 

The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2 inch, turf problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. .

Below, once again you can see the thatch layer between the bottom of the turf and the gray colored soil.  The area is dense and tangled and attracts insects and is a haven for disease occurrence.  In dry periods this layer keeps water from getting deeper into the soil and to the roots where the plants can utilize the water.  During wet periods the thatch acts like a sponge and hold water reducing the ability for the turf to drain.

The soil probe photo below shows another of undesirable and excessive thatch in a turf.

Fairway aerification is implemented to reduce thatch and have firmer and drier turf surfaces

Aerification plugs are "chopped-up"

The tufts of grass left from the aerificaiton & the chopping process are blown together for collection & removal
                                
Sand topdressing is then applied to the turf.

A brush or steel drag mat is then used to drag the sand into the aerification which aides in providing channels for better surface drainage and oxygen exchange to the roots as well as reducing thatch levels.

How does thatch affect turf quality?
An excessive thatch layer (more than 1 inch) can restrict the movement of air, water, fertilizer and other materials to the roots. This air- and water-impervious layer causes the grass to restrict rooting to the thatch layer which in turn reduces drought resistance in the turf. Additionally, if the thatch dries out, it becomes very difficult to re-wet with out the use of wetting agents or mechanical manipulation.

What factors influence the seasonal opening and closing of the range tee?

The NCC driving range is a busy place.  It receives more activity than any private club driving range that I have ever seen.  Thousands of ball are hit each day.   In order for the surface to be ready for spring play, it is necessary to give it the attention it needs in the fall while the growing conditions are still favorable for recovery. 

It wasn't long ago that the driving range tee was in poor condition on a year round basis (see photo below.)Despite enlarging the range grass tee by 2.5 times in size, we still rotate through the range tee 3 or 4 times a year.  Many clubs do not even go through their full range tee once or even twice in a year.   Unlimited ball access, active lesson schedules and just plain ole practice impact the range turf at NCC.

If we want quality hitting conditions as witnessed below in the spring when the course opens then there are early fall measures that must be taken to prepare the grass tee and the short game hitting area.

The photos below are examples of the extensive divots and wear on the range tee and short game approach turf.  These areas must be seeded and topdressed and leveled while the weather is still warm enough to germinate the seed and have it fill-in before the frosts of the fall and ice of the winter impacts it.

Without closing the range tee in October for re-seeding then this is how some of the areas would look when we open the course in the spring.  Grass does not grow in the winter months under the snow.

Divots in the short game area must be re-seeded and allowed to germinate while the weather permits.

Why do you ask for carts to stay in the fairways?

Often, following rainfall periods, we ask golfers to keep their carts in then fairways. This is done in hopes of limiting damage to the golf course. Except for the lowest parts of the fairways, the fairways are better drained and do not have standing water and they dry quicker than the roughs.
The photo below shows one of the may wet and standing water pockets in the roughs. This is due to the fact that the roughs are not as level as the fairways, do not have the subsurface drainage as the fairways, and they are not aerified and topdressed as much as the fairways.
The course is extremely wet today following 4 inches of rain this week as evidenced by the photos below. Notice how even foot traffic is causing visual damage to the turf.

Totally saturated soil conditions and overcast climate conditions leave little opportunity for the turf to dry.

The tracking and rutting below is why we ask carts to stay on the path on the white nine when it is wet.

Exposing the course to carts today would have resulted in hundreds of these tracked and rutted areas. These areas occurred on the white nine alone where carts we asked carts to please stay on the paths.

Notice that there are no tracks or rutting behind the cart in the fairway cut? This photo verifies our request to limit damage to the course in wet conditions. The fairways generally have better drainage than the roughs and do not hold as many pockets of water.